Action Motion

TV, 20mm, 1/6th, ISO 400, F8
TV, 20mm, 1/6th, ISO 400, F8
TV, 55mm 1/1000th, F/10. ISO400
TV, 55mm 1/1000th, F/10. ISO400
I think the shutter speed is 1/500 and the aperture and lens used was F11 Lens 50 mm
What i think the shutter speed is 1/7 and the aperture and lens was F8 Lens 50mm

What is action motion

In other words: you get motion blur when your shutter speed is long, whereas you freeze the action when your shutter speed is short. If your shutter speed is too fast (e.g., 1/4000s), you’re not going to capture much movement. A tripod is ideal, but you can also place your camera on some other steady object (e.g., a table or a bench). I’d recommend using a remote shutter release or a self-timer mechanism; that way, you can trigger the shutter without touching your camera (because the more you touch your camera, the more likely it is that you’ll introduce blur). With Shutter Priority, you set the shutter speed (and the ISO, if you so choose), but your camera will set the aperture to ensure the shot is well exposed. It’s a very handy mode for motion blur photography because it ensures you get the movement effect, you’re after while also capturing generally well-exposed images. So unless you compensate for this, whenever you try to capture motion blur, you’ll end up with overexposed shots. If you’re shooting in Shutter Priority, your camera will narrow the aperture for you. As soon as it detects a slow shutter speed, it’ll close the aperture and deliver a well-exposed shot. SO impacts the sensitivity of your digital camera’s sensor to light, where a higher number will induce greater sensitivity (and therefore a brighter exposure) and a lower number will induce less sensitivity (and therefore a darker exposure). A neutral density filters. It’s a piece of glass that blocks light from passing through your lens – sort of like sunglasses – and lets you use a long shutter speed while preventing overexposure. Slow sync flash. This lets you capture a relatively sharp subject while creating a moving, blurry background, and it’s a great way to create in-your-face shots. Panning. Here, you simply follow a moving subject with your camera; the subject will generally come out nice and sharp, while the background stretches and blurs.

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